Antique Jewellery

Periods in Antique Jewellery History

Late Georgian c. 1760-1837
Victorian         c. 1837-1901
Art Nouveau    c. 1890-1915
Edwardian       c. 1901-1915
Art Deco         c. 1920-1935
Retro             c. 1935-1950

Late Georgian Jewellery c. 1760-1837

The late Georgian period includes the reigns of the British monarchs George III and IV, and William IV. It was a time of political and social upheaval, during which the American Revolution, the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars were fought.

Jewellery styles tended to be smaller, lighter pieces with chains and classical motifs. Short necklaces flattered the low necklines of the time. Common styles included rows of graduated diamonds or other stones.

Diamonds were normally accessible to royalty only and were generally rose cut diamonds. Popular brooch designs included motifs of diamond-set bows, floral sprays and feathers.

Victorian c. 1837-1901

Queen Victoria ruled the throne between 1837 and 1901. She became the female trendsetter in times of prosperity and the Industrial Revolution. The emerging middle class created a demand for jewellery in mass quantity for a mass market.

Jewellery was large in appearance during the 1860's and 70's before becoming lighter and more delicate. Victoria's romantic nature inspired sentimental motifs including hearts, flowers and birds. Popular semi-precious stones such as amethyst, coral and opals were used to keep jewellery affordable. Large diamond deposits were found in 1867 and diamond jewellery became very popular with the introduction of electric lighting. The collectibility of Victorian items continues to increase with time due to it's scarcity on the market.

Art Nouveau c. 1890-1915

This design period emerged towards the end of Victoria's reign. It was based on a return to craftsmanship and design rather than the material used and so semi-precious stones like amethyst, moonstone and citrine were widely used.

Different themes in Art Nouveau include mythical hybrid forms and the representation of a female head with long flowing hair which was prevalent in the Symbolist movement.

Edwardian c. 1901-1915

The Edwardian period lasted from 1901 to 1915 and was a time when elegance and fashion became predominant values. New wealth flourished with the motor and movie industry movements.
The fashion for a low neckline in the evenings made pendants most popular and diamonds and pearls were set in platinum for their white on white colour scheme. The strength of platinum enabled the creation of 'invisible' settings for jewels.

Diamond engagement rings from this period often contain filigree detail (twisted gold or silver wire) and are very popular in the modern market.

Art Deco c. 1920-1935

This period spans the years 1920 to 1935. A decadent time during which women became able to vote and fortunes were made and lost on the stock market until the crash of 1929 and the Great Depression of the 1930's. Post-war prosperity however, broadened the market for precious stones.

Jewellery took its lead from Cubist 'modern art' and is apparent from the strong symmetry, geometry and streamlined shapes.
Antique diamond engagement rings
from this period are highly sought after and are often Asscher or Old European in cut.

Retro c. 1935-1950

Many different jewellery themes are encompassed in this era with a decade of depression followed by the outbreak of WW2 and then mass socio-economic changes post-war as middle-class affluence boomed.

The taste for Hollywood glamour called for 'larger than life' jewellery and the presence of flags and military insignia indicate the patriotism of the war.

Antique designer jewellery from this era is very popular such as that made by Tiffany and Cartier.